Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Obudu Mountain Resort and Drill Monkey Ranch

So, we are through with our first week in Nigeria and work is progressing, although very slowly. Doing business in Calabar, is nothing like working in the western world. Firstly, you hope you have an internet connection and forget about high speed broadband – it is sooooo slooooowwwww. Secondly, there are no telephone land lines so unless you have a cell phone, you cannot make a call. It is impossible to set up conference calls, make lengthy overseas calls or even leave a voice mail for someone - we are getting pretty good at texting. Finally, trying to set up an appointment is a real challenge. Everyone is always in a “meeting” that tends to run late so you are left waiting and waiting and waiting. Yet, in spite of all the challenges, work does get done. Businesses run, government continues and people adapt to their circumstances.

Last Friday we attended a reception hosted by the Governor at the Amber Sun Hotel. Calabar is famous for its yearly festival held during the month of December. It is similar to carnival in Brazil. This week saw the launch of the new logo for this year’s festival. We all had a chance to speak to the governor, share good food and enjoy a glass of wine. A nice end to a busy week!!

Our Escort


We had the wonderful privilege of being invited by the Governor to visit the Obudu Mountain resort about 6 hours drive from Calabar. On Saturday morning we were greeted by two drivers, four security officers and our host, Jane. Full of excitement and anticipation, we set our on our journey. I am still trying to figure out the rules of the road. It seems that as long as you have the bigger vehicle, you have the right of the road….and a VERY LOUD horn is part of the package. Sadly, there are many car wrecks along the road. No-one seems to remove the debris and along the roadside are many smashed cars, overturned trucks and rusted old cars.

Road conditions are not ideal


We passed through many villages, which all seem to look the same. There are the mud huts with banana leave roofs, umbrella stands selling cell phone cards, food stalls and an assortment of small shops selling everything from televisions to hair clips. Another Nigerian phenomenon is the small motor cycle – and you will be amazed at what they carry. I have seen motor cycles with whole families, wood piles, luggage and even huge water containers. It amazed me that they stay upright. They are everywhere and as we pass by, the driver honks his horn and they all move to the side of the road.

The countryside is beautiful – very green and peppered with palm trees, banana trees, cocoa trees and a local vegetable called cassava. Even the people living in the villages have pretty gardens with neatly placed shrubs and bushes. Along the way, we pass cattle, goats running across the street in the village and chickens pecking in the grass for food.

The Agbokim Waterfall


Our first stop on the way to the ranch was to visit a waterfall called Agbokim. What a spectacular sight!!! Gallons and gallons of water rushing to the river below. We were also treated to a family having their bath in the rivier. All the children were happily splashing and even the motor cycle got a wash!! Once we are spotted, all the children run out to see who these “white people” are. They are friendly and always willing to pose for a picture.


Later in the afternoon, we arrive at the Obudu Mountain resort. The resort is build around a cattle ranch high in the mountains on the border of Cameroon. The cattle ranch was established by Scottish farmers in the early 1950’s. Today there is still an operational cattle ranch, but they have also built a world class resort and convention center. Our adventure started with a 9 km cable car ride to the top of the mountain – at the highest point, we were 500m above the ground. What spectacular views all around of the mountains, valleys and swirling clouds. We even saw cattle grazing on the slopes of the mountains. This is truly God’s country. The alternative route of to the top of the mountain is a road with many hairpin bends and switchbacks. Most definitely not for the faint of heart. The cable car takes you into the reception area of the resort which is beautifully decorated with African artwork.



After dropping our luggage at quaint chalets, we set off to explore. The resort is a hiker/outdoor lovers dream. We walking down to a pretty waterfall and then hiked back up to the bus. The air is very thin so high up in the mountains and it takes a lot of effort to keep breathing normally. We then visited the cattle farm and were introduced to the two bulls, Thomas and Joshua. They are HUGE!! You can guess what there main role in life is – lets just say that the cattle population is increasing. We also saw a cow strolling back from grazing during the day. I am amazed that they find their way back without any help.

We then walked through a very green rain forest that is home to may bird species. The highlight was a canopy walk along a suspended walkway. It rocks and rolls as your walk along. The base can’t be wider than a foot with mesh sides that are no more than about four feet high, all suspended by cables. As long as I continued to look forward and not down, I was okay. I really had a sense of accomplishment making it to the other side. The kicker is that you have to come back along the same walkway.

After a wonderful HOT and STEAMY shower, we had dinner at the resort restaurant. Unfortunately, the clouds had rolled in so you couldn’t see outside but none the less, we had a wonderful dinner. After dinner, we went to the bar for beers and to relax in front of the fire. It started pouring – and I mean torrential rain – while we were inside. It was a mad dash from the bar to the bus but then into a soft, warm bed with a huge cuddly duvet. What bliss…..aaaaah!!

Bright and early the next morning – 8am – we had breakfast and hit the road soon afterwards. Some brave souls went down the winding road in the bus and other (like myself) took the cable car to the bottom of the mountain. What an awesome ride through the mist!!

Pablo, the chimp


Our destination was the Aki Mountain Drill Ranch Sanctuary, home to the Drill monkeys and chimps. The ranch is located within a tropical rain forest, the natural habitat of the drill monkey. The purpose of the ranch is to re-establish the drill monkey population and eventually release troops into the wild. While the monkeys are in their natural habitat, each troop is surrounded by an electric fence so that they do not escape. There are also about 25 chimps at the sanctuary. Many of them were orphans and are being raised to hopefully be returned to the wild. It is a wonderful project and I was very honored to have seen the work being done.


Aki Mountain is also home to the longest canopy walk in Africa. Naturally, we had to walk it and enjoy the beauty of the rain forest. However, the mud roads leave much to be desired. After navigating an often very slippery road, the bus finally had to stop. We were being followed by our escort in a pickup, so what do enterprising IBMers do – we all climbed into the pickup and proceeded to the start of the hike. Our every present escorts ran behind the pickup and then hiked through the forest with us. What a dedicated bunch of guys!!!

It was very humid in the forest and I must have lost a gallon of water with all the sweating I did, but I would do it all over again. Once again, I decided to be very brave and walk across the suspended walkways up in the trees. While scary, it is still an awesome sight. At the highest point, we were about 75 feet above the ground.

Our trip home proved to be just as adventurous. Once again, we all piled into the pickup for the ride back to the bus. Our first thoughts were “I need something to drink…..NOW”. We settled down for the long ride back to Calabar. The driver wanted to make it back before the sun set and I now know why…..half the cars don’t have lights!!! As we whizzed past villages, cars and the every present road blocks, we prayed that we would make it back safely. Hoorah…..finally home and a well deserved dinner, shower and bed.

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